The project
DYES
Inspired by a trip to Oaxaca, Mexico to work with a family of third generation Zapotec dyers and weavers, one of the aims of this project was to bring the value of healthy and beautiful ancestral dyes to a larger audience while modernising and optimising its production process.
Working together with CareApplications, a laboratory based in Alcoy, Spain, we were able to conduct experiments to explore the hidden science, colours and aromas of the natural world, specifically using the surrounding mountains of the region as a case study.
With their expertise and innovative ECOFinish nebulisation technology, we were able to apply a wide range of earthy colours to both plant and animal fibres using 90% less water while optimising color performance and playing with subtle changes in tones by altering pH levels.
AROMA
Aromatic plants and herbs have historically been used for their medicinal properties, helping boost immunity, reduce inflammation and even helping with memory loss. We wanted to work upon this and explore the potential to integrate these properties into the garments we wear on a daily basis to ultimately change the role of how we perceive clothing in today’s society, not only as functional garments, but also as emotional and heath-beneficial links.
We decided to integrate a range of aromas from the same plants we were extracting colour from by micro-encapsulating their essential oils and applying them to our fabrics with a cationic binder. By doing so, the garment or fabric we scented could retain its aroma for up to 10 washes, creating strong bonds between the microcapsules and fibres. The aroma is released only when friction occurs, so we were able to maintain a subtle scent without it being too overbearing.
Re-Scenting
Exploration
One of the main questions we received was: “How long does the scent last? What happens when the scent fades away after the washes?”
As a response, we collaborated with Profactor and Haratech, two 3D printing specialists in Linz, Austria, to develop prototypes to re-scent our garments.
We developed an adjustable, packable and transportable jacket stand to re-scent our handmade jackets with an essential oil diffuser. The shoulder angles are adjustable depending on the garment owner’s shoulder anatomy and width, making sure the jacket maintains its structure during the re-scenting process.
We also developed 3D printed domed buttons that can screw opened and closed so that a piece of scented fabric can be inserted and its scent can sift through the perforated top of the button. A piece that can be easily interchanged between garments with a scent that can be customised depending on the wearer’s personal preferences.
